In reply to:
http://www.basejumper.com/...FIN_ISLAND_P2974089/
Yah huge effort... you need about 30 days notice to get decent airline tickets. Back when you could mail things there cheep you had to allow eight weeks for parcel post to make it there. So the real commit date was about two months out. You should give Levi some notice to make sure he can have somebody with a working snow mobile available to give you a ride out. And you'll need an HF radio of Sat phone just in case you need to change plans. Basically it takes a couple of months to throw a trip together. That's assuming YOU are ready to go.
Guide you to the exit point? They will take you to the bottom of the cliff and drop you off. From their you're mostly on your own. If you've got the cash you can pay them to camp out there with you. It's awesome to have access to a snowmobile. But now you're racking up the bucks. It takes multiple people to split that kind of cost.
So basically if you want to go next year in 2015 then go. All you really have to do is buy the tickets. If you need some one to hold your hand... that's a whole different matter. Baffin is not a place for fools or small children. A large well organized group will not make up for any short comings. All that will give you is a false since of security and enough courage to get your self in trouble.
Fun Baffin stories just to illustrate the nature of the trip.
Longest approach. It once took me four days away from camp to find my way to the top of the cliff and the exit point. But 36 hours of that was pinned down in a storm. Bring a bivy.
Fauna. Waking up to find polar bear tracks circling your tent. They run around a thousand pounds but the scary part is that you never knew it was there. Bring a gun.
Hikes. Totally depends on snow conditions. Seen more avalanches then I can count. Late season, June, is treacherous beyond belief. Depending on the year it can get dicey by mid May. In truth some of the approaches are fairly easy and short. The beak is one of the easiest and shortest hikes on the island. Totally non technical. And it's the one that that English guy almost died on. He slipped. By nothing short of a miracle he got caught on a ledge. Could have fallen the rest of the 2000 feet to the glacier. If you'd seen the profile you'd understand how lucky he was. I'm not joking about it being a 2000 foot fall. So he was fine. Not hurt. But the ledge was too small for him to move. His friends were able to go and get enough rope to retrieve him but by then his feet were frost bitten. I think he got to keep all of his tows. Lucky. And that's the easiest one.
Travel. You're joking, it's the arctic. Pay your money and take your chances. I've been stuck in airports for four days. I've seen towns closed down to travel for two weeks at a time. Bags arrive three weeks late from a flight. I've been pinned down in a blizzard on the ice for ten days. And then the ice may be un travelable. You can have twelve inches of water on top of the ice. Not to mention break up. One climbing team was stuck there for a month past planned pick up. No hope of contact or rescue.
Food. No one ever brings enough. The most weight I've lost on one of these trips was twenty pounds. I don't have twenty pounds to lose. A bear got one of my cashes, I got hungry.
Weather. By alpine standards, mild. Not to be confused with forgiving. I don't know if the vid of the jump off the cliff by hang over hill still exist. I would guess the wind was around 60 mph when I landed. You can have a week of perfect weather followed by a week grounded. Storms blowing down off the land can shed a tent.
Time. All in all, I like to allow two months for a trip. Less then six weeks is a gamble. If every thing goes against you, you might wind up with nothing.
Isolation. In some ways, when every thing goes smoothly, rare, it doesn't seem that bad. On the other hand when the weather turns or equipment breaks down you start to realize just how far extended you are. For example there isn't even a doctor in Clyde. You could be ten days away from a hospital in moderately poor conditions. You can bled a lot in ten days. That's a very realistic number. If it really storms... well nothing happens till it's over however long that is. Consider your self to be on your own, and I am not joking about that.
Oh, and we haven't even gotten to the jumping. It depends on what area you go to. Some places like Sam Ford have had quite a few jumps. Maybe half the jumpable cliffs have had at least one jump made from them. ITW it's not. Some places are totally virgin. I've probable traveled as much as any base jumper up there and there are still valleys that I have not even seen. If you are not ready to stand there on the ice and look up at a mountain that no human being has ever climbed before. Find you way up it. Evaluate the cliff. Find an exit point. Evaluate the weather. And Jump it. All alone. Then don't even think about going up there. And that is the easiest part of the whole trip.
I'm trying to think of other general comments. I could probable write a book about it. Every one that's been up there is happy to share what they have learned. We've all written extensively about it. I think it's one of the greatest most beautiful places on earth. But there is a certain harshness to it.
They say wisdom comes from experience but experience comes from a bad judgement.... well Lee is very wise. Nobody has done as much BASE exploration up there as he has.
Let's do the math on that. By your logic, if I'm so wise that means I've gotten a lot of experience. But experience comes from bad judgment. So I must really be a stupid son of a... Hmmm.
Actually I was just thinking about the fatalities up there. Both of them really kind of surprised me. It didn't surprise me that they happened. If large groups of people started coming up there I fully expected some one to get into trouble. What really surprised me was the nature of the fatalities. They were both straight up base jumping fatalities. Could have happened any where. I always assumed that it would be related to the environment. Rock fall, or a broken leg on an approach, avalanche, storm, a bear... All of those things were always more frightening to me then the jumps. There are so many tall cliffs with seriously nice exit point. I'm talking big over hangs. I never would have imagined that some one would get into trouble on a jump. May be it's the hikes or the size of the trip that messes with some ones mind and interferes with their judgment. But even that doesn't really seem to apply. In one case there was a totally forgiving exit point 200 yds away. The other wasn't that long of a hike. I just never understood how ether came about. I wish I knew what they were thinking at the time. With so many outstanding exit points around them what inspired them to jump such sketchy exits. Did they feel doubt of some kind of premonition as they stood there. Was it the huge investment of the trip that inspired them to push the limits of their abilities. How does one equate to the other. When I'm that extended I if any thing get more conservative. Was it the group dynamic? The smaller groups that have been there seem to have exercised more conservative judgment.
I was always just really baffled by those accidents. If I had been asked how the first fatality there would have come about I never in a million years have predicted that kind of event.
http://www.basejumper.com/...rum.cgi?post=2589363
For those of you not familiar with Sam Ford here are a few of the things on the menu this spring.
On another subject, who has jumped what up there? Could we dispense with the whole site-naming thing for this discussion? Honestly any one with the dedication and resources to go there, the skill to survive there, and the ability to reach the exit points is probable qualified to be there. This is not a burnable site you can drive to. I remember when I could count the total number of accents on my fingers much less the jumps that were made. I’ve lost track of who all has been up there to play.
I’ve been all over but I only have jumps off Kigut, The Beak, Scott Wall, Hang Over Hill or more precisely the cliff south of it, and The Prow.
Every one knows about Ox, Dave, the Red Bull crowd, the Limes, and I herd a Russian climber took a rig along on Great Sail. Chad was up last year but we never bumped into each other. I think he got some jumps off Kigut. Who else is a vet?
Lee
P.S. Yes, these are all from the same valley, wait I lied one is in Clyde but it can easly be done as a day trip when you come back to town.
Baffin was never as big a secret as people think. Sylvesters jump was off Asguard. In fact I know Ox jumped Thor which is a great cliff some years earlier. Jean Banish ran a trip to the park at one point. I don't know if that was the same trip Ox was on or not. He was planning on takeing a trip up to the NE coast then he broke his back. He didn't make it up there till several years later when he went up there with Barlia. If you'll recall Barlia had all ready been up to the park to jump Asguard with Patreak. See Good Stuff. The NE coast was just less well known till Mark Sinnet started that big wave of climbers with The Great and Secret Show but even then a few other groops had been up there. The best pics I found were in Climbing several years earlier from a photographer that went up that way.
You may be a little off base with this one. People are not lineing up to go up there. Trust me on this. I've been trying despratly to find people to come with me. It's become kind of a yearly ritual. I don't know how many times I've tracked people down calling them out of the blue asking them if they want to go this year. It's the same shit every year. I make the rounds calling every one I know that might be even vagely interested. It's always the same thing, no money, no time, too cold, are you fucking crazy?
I wouldn't be here doing this if I wasn't out of options. I'm honestly not trying to rub any bodys nose in this. I don't think we know each other. I'm normaly a rather private person. I don't normaly go around waveing my own flag. I guess that's why I feel a little defencive. I'm a bit uncomterble doing it. I guess I'm feeling a bit guilty.
As to you mere mortals... All I can say is put up or shut up. I wish you could see me. My emince stature, my grand presence, a greek god come to life. Tom hates going out with me becouse I get all the women. The truth is that I'm a short, ugle, unplesent little bastard, with a small pecker that couldn't get laid even if I was a millionare in a whore houes. And I'm not rich but I made it happen. Not once but three times. I'm not in great shape but I don't stop till I get there. I'm at best a meadeocer climber but I've bullied my way to the top of a lot of objects. In short there is absolutly nothing specal about me. The only diffrence is I bought the tickets and I went. I don't want to say that any one could do it, but any one could prepare to do it. There is a slight but important diffrence there. A lot of you could do this. It's mostly just a matter of will.
As for you... in case you didn't notice this is a cattle call. I don't want to say that it's an open invatation but it is an invatation. You could be there jumping all those cliffs this spring.
i'm tired so I'm going to cheat and paist some things togather from a couple of e-mails. It may be a bit in coharent.
I'm down in Dallas. Just got back from shooting the Black Water demo team jumping into the Armed Forces Bowl foot ball game.
I would not even concider mailing my camera up there. Those are the things that you'll have to cary. Just plan on spending a couple hundred dollars on extra baggage. The harness and rope are fine. The things you might need to buy or borrow are: Crampons, ice axe or tool, high altitude plastic mountianearing boots, warm synthetic bag, etc. A lot of the things you probable have or can borrow. Here I'll try to find a list of stuff from another e-mail.
Gear, To be honest that's secondary to knowing how to use it. They fact that you have to ask means your a bit behind the power curve. In any case here is a list just keep in mind that throwing down a CC might be enough to get you up there but it may not be enough to get you back alive. If you buy this stuff you need to pack it up and head to CO and start useing it.
List of shit:
Tent four season with good tie downs and a good high vestabule. this you can share with another jumper. example:
North Face Mountian 25 $400
High altitude plastic Mountianearing boots. example:
Yellow Koflacs Artic Exp? $350
Several pairs of socks example:
Smart Wool Mountianearing
Good synthetic bag at least 0 -15 if you want to be cozy.example
Mountian Hardwear 4th demention $350
Bivi bag in case you get stuck. Cheep synthetic or down. The main thing is small enough to jump. At least +15 degrees. You could go warmer but you will be missrobal
Shitty REI 35 degree for $100
Some kind of bivi bag cover example dryloft sleeping bag cover. $100
Gaters
Wind stoper gloves $30
Mit Shells and liners $60
Balaclova $20
Wind stopper hat $30
Liquid fuel stove you should probable have one of your own and spare parts
MSR Dragon Fly $100
Foam pad 3/4 in ridge rest better to have two or 1 1/2
Good Long under wear top and bottom say two sets
Good Fleace top and bottom $60 to $100 each
Gortex or cheeper eqv pants with zippers to go over boots.
Shell jacket. Wind breaker, $60 or Fancy stupid over priced gortex shit that you will sweat your ass off in for $400+
crampons, flat point, example
S-12 $60
Axe of some type keeping in mind that you will have to jump with it $40 to $160 for a tool
Harnes $40
a few beaners, rapel, etc $50 to $200 depending on what you can get by with and how fancy you want.
Rope If we want to do some of the more tec sites. Probable about one half rope apeace or one for two.
about $130
Glacer glasses $100
Sled one for every two people $400 Or cheep toy sled for a fraction of the price.
Poles $60
Camp chair. $40
I could probable go on but those are the things that come to mind. Big items at least. but before you go out and buy any of this shit first buy the old Bible, Mountianearing Freedom of the Hills and read it. Then buy what little you can as you can and go live in the snow on top of a forteener. That is when you will start to figure this stuff out. Thats when you will start to figure out what you need and what you use.
Spring is the time to be up there. March is still black night and cold. Mid April till the end of may is the best time to be there. If you get too far into June it starts to get rather hot. A lot of stuff starts to come down. It's just not refreazing at "night". Ice seasons vary but you can generaly count on it through mid to late june. Travel with a heavy komotic may be epic late in the season. Best bet is May At least three weeks, better a month. I'd bee up for six late April through early June. I'd like to see who is serious about going before trying to set dates.
Travel: I fly to Ottawa for about 600 plus baggage. Ottawa to Clyde was 2000 US last year. Last year the snowmobil was 1000 us round trip. Best to ship food and heavy stuff up by mail in advance. Allow 8 weeks to be safe. No shit there is a back log and you are last on the list. From europe you might try to get a flight in to Iqaluit but from there you are stuck on first air.
When you get a chance you might tell me a bit of your story and send a list of questions I'll be happy to answer them
I don't know you. I'd love to have some people come with me this year but I wont bull shit you this trip is not for every one You might want to think carefully as to whether you are really down for a trip like this. What I can tell you is that better base jumpers then you have declined.
A snow mobile is tricky. If there is one that will start then some one is probable out running it. They only last for about a season and a half. Two years if your lucky. That why the guiding price is so high. Unless you're willing to wait till spring and have it shipped up on the one boat a year in late augest/september then you'll have to pay through the ass to have it flown up. You could have a guide stay a couple of days when he drops us off and come a couple of days early when he picks us up. They will be out in the area from time to time as well. He might be able to run you around then. At the minimum your looking at a couple hundred a day. Remember he needs to be bringing another cliant out and has a very short season to make all the cash money he will see for a year. If you are flexable and can arange a time when he does not have other work waiting for him they would be a lot more aimeable to some thing like that. The distances are so big that you just about need transport to get really good pictures. But if you get them... let's just say not every one has those shots.
antother e-mail:
Levi is running an out fitting service there now. He took shipment of all my food. Be careful how you lable things. Comercal shipments get taxed hard. Put any thing you ship in some old box and mark it as your personal stuff for your personal trip. Do not have some company for example drop ship you a rope in a brand new box marked as a sell.
You gona come play again this year? What are your plans?
Levi Palituq
PO Box 99, house 232
Clyde River, Nunavut
XOA OEO
Canada
levi@qiniq.com
In march you can see -35 at night and that is still black nights. By mid April your looking at -15 for a low. Ofical 24 in Clyde is some where around May 10th I think. But by mid April it will never be darker then twilight. Still has a good bit of cycle about -15 to +15. By May things are getting warmer. you'll see about -5 at the begining. by mid may lows might be like +10. By the end of May you'll just barly be freezing at night if your lucky. June is warm and you can nolonger depend on a freeze cycle when things go into shadow. A lo of wet stuff starts commeing down. You'll be sking along in your long underware just trying not to get sun burned. I'm talking +65.
all of these are in F and my best guess based on memory.
Plane Ticket are one of the big ones. I think I payed $650 to Ottawa but from there you are stuck on first air. It was $2000 from there to Clyde. about another $500 total for excess baggage. The snowmobill was $1000 round trip last year.
http://www.basejumper.com/...rum.cgi?post=2569612
You pack on the sea ice. Just throw a tarp out. For the most part it's not a problem. There are some areas where the snow is very soft. Where water has formed on top of the ice below the snow and eroaded it from below. Basicly quick sand. Even then if you can pack at "night" it's often cool enough for the crust to suport you so you don't sink in.
Totaly lost the weather gamble last year. About every six years they have a year like that where it just never seems to stop snowing. I don't know the mecanisem. Sounds like an El nino kind of thing. Basicly I'd have nice weather, get a jump then it would turn nasty. I'd pack up and head for another cliff along the way it would get nice but I'd just be out on the ice. I get to The Prow and the weather turns bad again and I'm stuck for a week waiting. Nice Day and I get a jump then the wind picks up So I start humping. Of course then the weather gets nice again. I get into the pass across Remote and I get stuck in this nasty ground fog. I could see up at the sky but not the mountians on eather side and only about thirty feet on the ground. So I was trying to navagate "IFR" by the angle of the sun. The whole time expecting to see a bear charge from out side the range of my vision. They love bad weather and hunt by sound and smell. It got bad enough that I was stuck there for a couple of days. Then just as I get to the end of the pass to Hangover Hill I get cought in a storm for about a week. Did I mention that a bear got into I cash I droped off on the way out? So for the last four weeks I was on 1/4 rations. Damn bears. Ate every thing but the hot chocolate. Thank god for Swiss Miss. Storm sucked then it was perfect, dead calm and blue skys. Pulled the rest of the way to the cliff took a knap and started climbing. There was a lot of snow droped by the last storm. Slow going.
I got to the top and the weather was still nice but you could see some wind in the clouds. Did some rock drops and geared up. As I did the wind started to pick up. Still not bad. I mean it's a big wall with a seven mile wide landing area. So I was playing the lul game for a while. Got I nice lul and decided to go. This is when I triped and fell right on my face on the edge. You got to see the video. Be advised the camera from which you can see the edge was on my hip not my head. Just about gave my self a heart attack. The wind is still not real bad maybe 15 but the landing area is huge and you can open high and fly well away from the wall. So I talked my self into going, did not want to walk dow. This is the Famous jump number three. Short delay. Flew away from the wall at about 1000ft I hit the shear layer. Bad turbulance. The wind was NOT blowing above me and comeing down. It was blowing down in the bottom and comeing up. The gust were pulling the canopy over side ways level with my body in flight. For the record that big Flick that Jimmy was kind enough to loan me for the trip never once folded up. That was a very nice canopy. There were a lot of things I liked about it but I will not degress on to that subject right now. I got just as far away from that cliff as that canopy would take me, nice glide by the way, before turning into the wind. Backing up faster then I normally fly forwards. Canopy touched down just fine then the ride began. I really really wish I'd taken the time to build three rings for that rig. I started hauling in on a break line till the cascade jammed in the ring. Wrapped the line around my boot and used it to pull the line down till it poped through and I could climb up and get ahold of the tail. It didn't stop dragging me till I was pulled ontop of the canopy. The canopy was so big, 265, and the lines so short that half the canopy was still at line stretch and that alone was enough to drag me. You got to see the Video. I was tempted to let it go for a while it was actually takeing me towards my camp. but the consiquences of hitting a stray jaggad peice of ice sticking up out of the snow were just two scary. I'm guessing the drag line was 150-200 yards as it was. When I looked back it went further then I could see. Best guess was stedy 50 mph with gust pushing 70mph.
I got back to my tent. I put it up where it was some what sheltered behind a point but there was also a glacier there and some times the wind would come down of that and try to flatten the tent. I spent the next couple of days in it as every thing melted around me. It was a warm wind blowing down off the land and all the snow was melting around me into a lake on the ice. I lost most of my ankers and had to pull the pole from the vestibule. In the end I was just tied into a couple of ice screws. Wish I had a few more with me. Never leave home with out them.
In the end all was fine. The north face Mountian tent held togather and came through with flying colors. A calm sunny day melted what little snow remained and between the sun and the wind most of the watter was cleared off the ice. It was a nice cool night and most of what remained refroze. Illko came by and picked me up around three AM and we headed back to Clyde. So ends the third great saga of northen exploreation.
Sorry didn't mean the answer to be so long.
