Re: [milkflyrockclimb] Tree landing - Self Rescue
I've tested 2mm, 3mm, and 4mm cord, on my own body weight (~180 lbs) hanging and rappelling (over a safe padded surface). I tried: single strand and double strand, and using either a munter hitch, a super-munter, or just several wraps (4-6) around the spine of a locking carabiner.
I used Sterling cord sold by Eastern Mountain Sports. Sterling provided me the following breaking strength for their products:
2mm: 1 kn (225 lbs)
3mm: 2.1 kn (472 lbs)
4mm: 4.6 kn (1034 lbs)
Single strand 2mm broke reliably at the friction knot, when rappelling on a munter. single strand 2mm broke with deliberate bouncing/falling, when wrapped around the carabiner spine. Didn't get double-stranded 2mm cord to break. I don't remember 3mm cord breaking on me under any testing, I don't have any pictures of broken 3mm cord, I'm sure I would have taken them if it happened. 4mm single strand worked well, even with bouncing vigorously under a munter hitch. I did not try to load any direct falls onto the rope though. 4mm double strand felt bomber.
My own personal conclusions:
A) I would only consider rapping 2mm if I could double it up, and it was a dire emergency (I would be shitting my pants all the way down though). I'd use 3mm cord, if it meant the difference between getting down or spending the night injured in a tree and getting compartment syndrome. 4mm felt safe-ish.
B) I chose 4mm x 30m cord for my emergency stash kit. I would use a carabiner wrap for friction before I used a munter or super-munter. I would also double up the cord if possible, even if it meant doing multiple rappels (though if I was injured I might just do a single rap to get down with less fuss). I'd downclimb as far as I could first.
C) Reducing sharp bends in the rope is critical. This applies to the friction method, and also to how you attach it to the anchor point. Things you can do to make this less-unsafe:
-rap on both strands, looped over a large diameter branch with no sharp points nearby (rope could slip sideways so check the branch carefully).
-Place some clothing or other padding between the rope and the tree branch, both to reduce sharp points and to increase the diameter of the tree branch.
-If you need to do a single-strand rap, attach it to the tree with a double-clove hitch (google the picture if you don't know it) instead of a double-figure-8. Remember, virtually all knots weaken the system.
D) Keeping in mind that even if I don't
intend to dynamically load the rope, it could happen accidentally from a slipping branch or a slipping foot. So prevent that at all costs.
E) Even after all this, it's still a last resort for if I can't wait for real rescue assistance with gear that's actually safety rated.
The cord is super cheap. Grab some lengths from your local gear store and test it yourself... then lets compare notes. Here are some pics.