Re: [Skruff] Squirrel's opinion (NBS) on ABX
It's a reasonable point of discussion if it's aimed at starting an exchange. It's not if the goal is only to share a point of view or to criticize something one doesn't like. It might also not always be easy for me to discernate the signal among the noise of forum threads like this one and I apologize for emitting doubts about the usefulness of a serious answer.
I'll start by clearing one point first because it seems that many people tend to mix different ideas when it comes to evaluating the effort in the gear depending on the dynamics of the system.
It’s necessary to understand the main concept to understand the choices and construction details.
In reply to:
The loading on a base harness loads quickly and fully every time it's used compared to other generic 'fall protection' applications you elude to (work harnesses, rock climbing, maybe?) where the loading doesn't occur at all if they don't fall, doesn't come with the shock loading if they use it mostly to repel, and during a genuine fall probably does not occur at terminal velocity.
This is a misconception. It’s like saying the load doesn’t occur when the rig is on your back (which is true, but it doesn’t change the designing parameters). Both type of harnesses are made to withstand a maximum defined force because it’s an easy way to set a “safe limit”. If you assume a normal distribution and decent manufacturing reproductibility, you'll be able to load such a product hundreds or even thausands of times at 90% of the breaking load, without damage. So simply setting a minimum required strength before failure insures a basic minimal safety, then each product can be oversized to a certain extent to insure bigger lifespan or inspire confidence.
Now for legal responsibility of manufacturers, and maybe for the sake of selling as much as possible too, every user manual will tell you to change you gear after an impact, or to change your carabiner after it felt on the ground from more than 5m… Up to you to figure out where your margins are. If you dig into the studies and test reports about residual strength of carabiners that have been subject to impact on hard ground, you’ll understand why these recommendation have to be taken with a grain of salt. The most important aspect is by far to know the history of your gear.
The speed doesn’t matter. I approach the “fall protection strategies” from another angle, because I've been confronted to the climbing environment way before discovering paragliding and basejumping. In each of these areas, the problem is the following : you have a human body accelerating towards mother earth because of the good old gravity. At some point, you have a very sorry human approaching a rock solid ground at a speed which is way higher than what he's able to absorb, but usually below 50(m/s) because of air drag.
We can see the human body as a nice machine engineered by natural selection which (when fully functional) is more or less able to survive an impact against something immuable like a tree or the ground up to a speed in the order of 10(m/s) - which includes a natural reflex tending to deccelerate as much as possible with the arms or legs when getting in contact - to protect the head and spine at all cost. It's quite satisfying, because it's also the same range of speed that humans can reach. That is when running for their life - before the wheel was invented - and let alone the combustion engine..
In between these two speeds (10 - 50 m/s), we have to slow down in the best possible way by other means. Unfortunately we cannot deccelerate the human body too fast, because it breaks apart.
Now you can have a quick look at this post, especially the second paragraph about opening, forces, and injuries.
http://www.basejumper.com/...post=2955956#2955956 From experimentations made by others, we know that we can apply a 20g acceleration to a human body for a short time, and that it’s pointless to make the gear stronger to be able to widthstand a higher acceleration, because at this point it would’nt be saving a life anymore.
About the mass: when designing a product you can make as many sizes as you want, but you won't change each type of materials depending on the weight of the customer for obvious practical reasons. So there's an upper limit to define, wich is usually around 100kg, depending on the manufacturer's choice.
In real life, we want a harness able to destroy a human body before breaking. We decide it has to withstand a load around 20kN repetitively. So we fix a minimum breaking strength around 22kN in pretty much every possible configuration, loaded by only side, or completely upside down, etc.
Now if we apply a 20kN load to a 100kg body, this gives an acceleration of 20g. That perfectly makes sense, because a human being is able to survive a 20g acceleration for about half a second, but not much more, or not for a much longer period. Assuming terminal velocity (50m/s) that means that the worst case scenario we design our gear for is : stopping a falling human body from terminal velocity to zero, as fast as possible (to consume the minimum possible distance), but not too fast to avoid lethal injuries due to the decceleration.
So our worst case scenario in numbers looks like :
F = 20kN
m = 100Kg
a = -200m/s^2
initial speed = 50m/s
final speed = 0
...so assuming a linear decceleration, we’ll stop the human body in 0.25(s) over a distance of 6.25(m). That’s pretty hardcore, and that’s more or less what it looks like when you open a slider down canopy at terminal velocity. In real life, the distance is slightly bigger, and the decceleration takes a bit more time and is not linear, and the residual speed is not zero. But the peak of force is in this range.
The point is : the speed doesn’t matter. The human being structural strength is the limit. If the speed is only 25m/s, the maximum force we can apply to this body to stop it as fast as possible, but not too fast to keep it alive, is still the same. Around 20kN for a 100Kg human. The distance of decceleration will be shorter, and we could argue that it could be slightly optimized because the body can in real life sustain a slightly higher acceleration for a shorter time. But the general idea and the order of magnitude is still the same.
Conclusion : Because of the second law of Newton, and the way the human being is made, the strength requirement is always the same no matter what you’re doing, and the only parameter to balance the strength with is the amount of injuries you tolerate before accepting a gear failure. That’s true for every situation where you apply a force on the human body via a harness.
Concerning the confusion with “shock load” and “Todd’s video about bridles” it’s still the same mechanism. The peak load on a system depends on the force applied to a mass.
The only things we need to know to evaluate this force is the mass, the initial and final speed, and the distance traveled. As the distance approach zero, the force (and thus the acceleration) approaches infinity. Et vice versa.
Sorry I’m out of time, I’ll come back later for confluence wraps and exotic materials...