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Hello guys
I have a question about bridle 'direction', and I am interested in your experience.

Normally , in a container without magnet , the bridle is pinned from top, to bottom , finally it gets out from the bottom to enter with the PC in the BOC.

In case of hand held jump , theory teaches us that it is nice to have the bridle that after the bottom pin , it goes up and 'somehow' it is attach to the top part of the container , close to the shoulder, so that we will have a nice line from the shoulder to the hand. Classic setup.

I hear about a reverse method so that the bridle will be pinned as first to the bottom, then on the top and that comes out from the top part of the container so that it will be in a better position for hand held jump.

What do you think? Have you tried ? Any opening issues ?

Thanks for the hints :)
Ciao

Routing in this manner dramatically reduces the snatch force generated on the second pin. In this way, the PC effectively only has the travel of whatever slack is between the two pins (an inch or two).

In the normal routing, it has not just the slack between the pins but roughly double the distance between the pins for the PC to reestablish snatch force on the second, upper pin.

In my opinion, you're sacrificing effectiveness of the PC for convenience.

The second pin becomes the bottom pin. I'm very confused with your explanation.

 

Someone with 45 jumps shouldn't be telling someone with 30 jumps how much they should know.

Good luck!

I don't think that makes any sense.

Because I gave a shitty explanation. Sorry. Hopefully this one is better.

A PC has two forces: snatch and drag.

As the PC hits and removes the first pin, it hits with snatch force which is then degraded before it hits and removes the second pin.

Assuming handheld, low airspeed, and a jumper being relatively head-high, the traditional routing allows the PC to re-establish a greater snatch force on the second (top) pin.

Routed the other way reduces this because it reduces the distance the PC has to travel and reestablish a higher force to extract the second pin.

I'm not saying it's Black Death, I'm just saying you're reducing the effectiveness of a PC for the convenience of not just tucking the bridle.

Well I never thought about this method until an old base jumper, in terms of experience , Andy Callender , told me about this technique , and knowing the person I know that his first priority is safety....
I think I will make a couple of pictures and share , may be I explained myself badly and I have confused a bit ... Because in case of opening I don't feel a lot of difference but of course , I asked because I like to have opinions , so that I can learn more instead of assuming to know something

Thanks a lot for the additional details, I really find your feedback interesting ... Good thinking :)

I would agree. While switching the routing obviously works I don't like it. The people advocating flipping the shrivel flap upside down really creeped me out.

i also agree. it's pointless IMO. learn to manage your bridle well, then you'll be fine.

I have used this method a lot when going solo off an A, it gives me confidence being able to reach Back and directly feel the bridle fully from last pin. I have had no issues. But hey, I am not one that gives advice. Personally I use it and will use it again when I am alone

I can feel the bottom pin and follow the bridle easily. Could be that I have monkey arms though.

I use this method for all HH jumps and I know a fair few other jumpers that do. I also have a piece of Velcro on my bridle and the top flap of my container to stop it flapping around, works the same as a tuck. Each to their own just what I prefer.

Green Machine has been doing this for a long time.

I am old and decrepit and don't have full range of motion at shoulders

I have used this setup before, and if your gear is rigged well, it shouldn't make any difference. However, I'm not sure I'm sold on needing to do it, or that it's the most necessary convenience, especially when jumping with buddies who can check you.
Now, I have used it in order to shorten the bridle, and in that case the pin tension was very low, pins primed, and the PC was huge. The bridle was only the length of my arm plus the distance past that to the TOP pin. The pins were routed bottom then top, and this allowed me to make the bridle about a foot shorter. In this particular jump, I was free falling something low and the bridle's total length was like 4 feet.
All that being said, I don't think it's really necessary, unless you're using it for a special purpose like I was. Average jump? You should be able to route it normally. I think some problems can come into play with routing backwards, as far as bridle management and PC control, depending on how/where you stow the pc while gearing up and stuff. It's easier not to misrig if you have a normally stowed pc until you're fully geared for the jump... at least that's how I feel. Different strokes and all that.

Thanks a lot guys....
as mentioned, I never used it before but I see an usage after my last "exit point exploration" since there was a wall to go over and I saw that if the friend with me would have go solo, he would have problem with the classic bridle route (since the rig has not attachment on top of any kind)..

as mentioned... unless you have a velcro, or the magnet, in certain conditions it could make sense...

thanks for all the feedback , I appreciate them all ... now I think I will just check the force needed for the taking out of the pins in this and the classical solution...just for my "knowledge"

I use this method when I jump NOT solid objects in high winds to control my bridle on exit (not so much wind at the landing but enough gust on top to avoid stowing my PC). In 1 -2 seconds delay didn't notice any difference in opening height.
In the other rig I have I use a velcro to get my bridle in place (better when I'm alone cause I can hear the velcro if the bridle pull it up).
I would add that if you route it correctly it could help the pin extraction (just checking the orientation of the pins). Pre loading them and having the extraction in line with my falling direction, let me doing some SL without pushing hard from the object and so no pendulum after opening (obviously just where the object let you do that) and at least one second more under canopy to be spent (on 5 sec total).
Golden rule is: see someone EXPERT doing it before trying to jump on that configuration.

I wish to find one that show it to me , or some video/images on which I can rely on... :)

Jeremy is correct, was shown this in 2008
and have been doing mostly ever since.

If you want to see video of it being used
please click the link below.

I like it, it works for me, but the other
is fine too, I agree with the sentiment
good bridle management is the key.

Hi , sorry to bother further....
I checked the link but couldn't find the video between so many, do you remember the video title ?

https://www.facebook.com/.../?type=1&theater

Thanks a lot , precisely what I was trying to describe :)

Prego

I took my magnet out of my bridal as i didnt like it sticking onto handrails and antennas,

Me and my friends route the pins normally, prime the pins and run the bridal back upwards and over the shoulder, then tuck the slack between my harness and top of the shoulder, this is good because in freefall you can feel the bridal slip out, there is no worry of tensioning and trapping the bridal as after you jump there is minimal pressure on the should straps.

we do lots of lowish free falls, sub 200 feet, just my personal preference and i like feeling the bridal slip out