Downsizing from a Flick 308 advice
Hi, everyone! I have a Flick 308 with 2 vents (c2 and c5) in an APEX DP container. With my clothed weight being between 85 and 90kg my current wing loading is roughly 0.71.
In my short career I have been unlucky to experience two off-heading openings: a 180 and a 120. Both were handled by a riser turns.
I managed to turn a 180 off-heading by 90 degrees before brushing the object (did not break anything, very lucky, it would have been one messy situation if I struck it head on) and the remaining 90 I turned while sliding down the wall. Flew away in the end. Super lucky not to badly hurt myself.
The 120 was also handled by a riser turn. Flew away, not even close to being dangerous but gave me a super-good scare.
So I sat down and watched the videos over and over again to analyse both incidents and work out what can be done to improve the situation. In both videos I can see that my hands are on the risers immediately after opening and I am providing a lot of input on the riser (with toggles still stowed). I can clearly see the slider grommet and the rear riser carbine at level with my shoulder. At the same time, I am not observing a sudden turn by the canopy. The turn is way too slow on both occasions.
The canopy turns pretty quick on the toggles but the riser turns are just too slow.
I hooked the canopy to my s/d rig and jumped it out of a plane. Did a lot of practice turns in the air. Comparing to my skydiving canopy -- a 7-cell 210 the Flick is like trying to turn a train. The 210 turns "on a dime" on either front or rear risers while the Flick requires GORILLA FORCE applied as high as possible on the rears and held down for two-three seconds or so before any turning movement is noticed. Front riser inputs on a Flick are close to ineffective because of the amount of force that I need to apply to them in order to get anything happening at all. I know, I know, I am probably unfit, but it can't be that freaking heavy, or can it?
I tried hypnotising myself and doing jedi-mind training to go for the toggles as a first preference. But there is an issue -- in both incidents my body had turned more than the canopy. During the 180 incident I actually had a "riser twist" with the canopy flying into the cliff and me staring at the beach almost which meant that I could not get to the toggles so had no choice but to use a riser. In the 120 incident, my body did a 180 while the canopy did 120. So I was close to a line twist, one of my toggles was too far to reach and I grabbed the riser -- the closest control I could get to.
So my conclusion is that -- Ok, while I am conscious of the slow turning speed of the canopy and the need to un-stow the toggles ASAP, there could and have been scenarios where getting to the toggles was not possible or was not the quickest option available.
And therefore not being able to "turn on a dime" and being able to avoid the object is a paramount safety concern for me and by using gear that has that ability diminished I feel less confident to jump, which in turn adds to the stress and in turn increases the risk of bad exist, imperfect BP and therefore –- off headings. I therefore would like to find an optimal solution.
I am considering downsizing the canopy to a 280 OSP. My wing loading would therefore become 0.79 or 0.8. So my other questions to ppl who understand canopies better than me:
-- Has anyone been in similar situations? What have you done?
-- Would there be a noticeable difference between 308 and 280 (WL 0.71 vs. 0.79) in how quickly they turn? Or is it a negligible difference?
-- Is there a point to get custom risers with "swooping" handles to improve my ability to apply force on the riser? Or are those handles inappropriate in BASE environment?
Cheers!
Thank you for your input in advance.