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The less slack between the pins, the better. It should be as tight as possible and under as much tension as possible without disturbing the pins. This way, the pins will be pulled simultaneously, which prevents any pin lock issues. I've been able to bounce a quarter off of the bridle between the pins.

Wrong, wrong, wrong! If there is no slack between the pins you need enough force to pull both pins at the same time. The slack is there for a reason, no slack between the pins leaves only one direction of pull to remove the top pin, limiting the pins ability to rotate and increasing the chance for the top pin to lock. Which without any slack would also lock the bottom pin.

The orignal post and question was deleted before I saw this post, but I am assuming from this horrible answer that he asked how far apart the pins should be sewn to the bridle.

After seeing that post i knew this wasnt the place to ask technical questions.

Question was, if you can fit any 2 pin 9 foot bridle on any set up and what what kind of expiriances people had with this.

The last time i had my bridle made, the rigger asked what the distance between the pins of my old bridle was. Knowing that it needs slack in between i wondered how other jumpers judge this when getting a new bridle.

In essence, would one just buy any new bridle and stick it on any set up or have one custom made everytime you would need a new one.

cheers

i plan on building 2 bridles myself, under the supervision of a friend who has built several functioning base rigs.

my plan is to take the old bridle that came specifically with my helium, and measure/mark exact distances from canopy attachment, including pin placement space, space between pins, and length to PC attachment point, paying close attention to how much webbing is folded on the ends and bartacked.

seems like its pretty easy.

if you need specs, call the company who manufactured your rig i would think

I'm not sure if you're being serious, but what you are saying is a bad idea in my opinion.
I would expect higher forces required to open the container in some situations with the bridle you describe.

I think slack between the pins is important for the same reason you leave slack in the bridle between the top pin and its entry into the container if it's routed through the top.

I would be more inclined to ask for the distance between the container grommets and then build it according to those specs instead. Copying a bridle could equal copying an incorrect bridle.

If you are ordering from the manufacturer they should be able to match a bridle to the container you have by it's serial number.

Thanks guys

I dont have my rig with me, but i had my old man measure the distance between the container grommets and orderd a new one according to specs.

Cheers

You do not need supervision to make a bridle. By now I am 100% sure you understand your gear. So make a bridle, have a proper amount of distance between pins, make strong loops, and stop being a giant pUsSIe!

does anyone personally know this outtaboundz character?
i hear he has a giant, GApIng PussIE big!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

"He is so mysterious and handsome! Like Denzel, only taller."

Don't forget to make it a floating pin

Did you get your Twat tatted with the "BASE 78 forever" tribute ink yet?