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Hi guys, anyone having experience with slider up jumps using factory deep brake setting? I'm considering that configuration for a 1000 ft object where my poor subterminal track won't put me too far off the wall. In theory horizontal speed would be reduced even more, thus giving more time to correct an offheading.What do you think? Any thought is appreciated

I don't know the answer to your specific question
but will share a story from my junior year...

Couple hundred jumps ago when my sub-terminal
tracking skills were non-existent, I jumped from
1,050 feet up an antenna, counted to 6 but the
HD video from the ground clearly shows it was
only 4 full seconds in real time.

The short delay combined with a cross wind at pull
altitude gave me my first 180 and 2 nice line twists.

Like a scared newbie I got out of the twists before
correcting my heading and flew right between two
sets of guyed wires and am only alive today thanks
to good karma and dumb luck.

I mention this near death fuck up to undelrine
what the older and more experienced told me,
which is taking it lower is often safer because
it gives you more time to track, more air speed,
and a cleaner, more reliable deployment.

Good Luck!

Short answer : Yes. :)

Long answer : I have easily over 200-300 jumps on factory deeps on my Trolls with delays anything above 4s and this is my existing setup, I never use the factory shallow setting on my Trolls. And even with the factory deep setting and a 38 PC, they still open sometimes slowish and a bit snivelly and to be honest I would like a bit snappier openings.

Keep in mind though that I weigh around 76-78kg naked after a dump and jump 265 Trolls (280 on PIA size) so generally my canopies are 1 size too big (factory recommendation is 265 min 79 kg max 89 kg). Therefore also the factory brake settings are too shallow (as I am underloading it) and on my newer Troll which I use for SD jumps, I have a customised DBS which is good 12cm deeper than the factory one. So the actual factory DBS works fine for me in my canopies for customised SBS and the customised DBS I use on SD jumps. I also know another relatively experienced friend who is around my weight, jumps a 265 and uses always the factory deeps regardless SD or SU.

The key point in this is that there is only one way to find out... But as always when trying out something new, maybe it is better idea to try it out from somewhere else than in the 1000ft subterminal wall... Especially if your tracking skills do not get you that far out from the cliff.

Play safe,

I believe that if you are underloading a canopy that had its brake settings set perfectly for a heavier person, the brake settings would be too deep for the much lighter person. That is if one held brake settings constant on a canopy and successively put lighter and lighter persons in it it would eventually stall (e.g. the brake settings would be too deep).

of course, in reality, the firms are pretty conservative so most people have to reset their brake settings deeper even if they are fairly light.

Of course maybe I am mixed up:)

So what is your SOP now?
Take care,
space

Of course my first priority is preventing them,
by pulling lower and tracking better gives me
way more time to deal with any problems.

Ideally I would want to turn the wing away
from the object and then undo the twists.

I am very open to any suggests you have

As for brake settings, I too jump vented Trolls
that are lightly loaded, I am 183 pounds or
83 kilos and have two Troll-285's. I use the
shallow break settings for bridges and slider
jumps and deep break for slider-off jumps.

I weight 70 kg naked and my canopy is a vented flik ultralite 242

Same weigth but on 245 MDV. I'm always using the factory DBS on slider-up jumps.

The only drawback i noticed is on 245 with no vents, if opening full track, the canopy tend to stay backwards and surge frontward just like on a pre-stall. With the MDV it happened only a few times over hundreds of jumps but in a smoother way - also on full track opening / probably combined sometime with tailwind.

Anyway, for a vented canopy, I'm totally convinced to use the deepest brake setting (safely)possible. Even on the rare cases where it does the worse surge frontward, the canopy stabilize very quickly over the head and it give way more time to correct heading. Vented canopies are still very responsive to rear risers input in this configuration, non vented will side-stall and spin more radically and with less precision.

From my understanding, the loading on the canopy have only a small effect on stall point if your going vertical (box - no wind) - but it affects way more the canopy behaviour just after opening when going forward/tracking (because of the pendulum effect)