Basejumper.com - archive

     I've been thinking lately that my casual inspection of my base canopy before jumps is not focused enough and falls into the realm of complacency. For you rigger types out there, what should we be looking for on our inspections? I know what I look for, but a checklist would be nice. I did a forums search under canopy inspection and got nada. If this has already been covered I apologize. Antennae keep blinking their pretty come hither eyes at me...

Why not take your canopy to a rigger and have the rigger teach you how to inspect your canopy?

Or better still, have your rigger teach you how to inspect your entire parachute *system*.

Walt

I did. And that's how he spotted a tear in my center cell rib, about four feet back which I would not have spotted. I've looked into the cells, but to find this tear, you'd have to crawl up into the cell. So it got me to wondering how often I should inspect more than just the pc, lines, grommets, closing loop, seams, and outer fabric. Seemed like a good idea for a thread.

I probably do a pretty decent inspection every 50 jumps or so with normal use, but if Ive landed anywhere weird or suspect damage, obviously moreso. The nice thing is the majority of base canopies are nicely overbuilt to take some abuse.

....but I play one in my loft.

Same as hjumper33, I only fully inspect a
canopy when it is brand new, new to me, after
some funky situation, or when bored and have
time to kill. Here are some of the ways I use:

-Walk each line group seperately
-Lay it out and look at the top skin
-Lay it out and look at the bottom skin
-Climb inside every other cell and look

At Skydive Atlanta they have a long PVC pole
with clamps attached to it and suspended from
the 30ish foot ceiling with ropes. Any time I'm
there and have a BASE canopy unpacked I will
hang her up do a quick inspection also helps to
get the wrinkles out too.

I can and have hung up canopies in my loft aka
garage but it requires use of a ladder, hence I
only do it when necessary.

I have one at the school if anyone is in Twin Falls and wants to use it.


Jubal, if you're looking for a checklist, I'd recommend posting on the Gear and Rigging forum at Dropzone.com and see if any riggers there want to share their worksheet with you.

If you really want to get into the inspection, I was shown once to use a small flashlight to look over every seam and stitch. The flashlight doesn't help you see better rather it helps your eyes focus on that spot and it keeps your eyes from wondering off from the part you are inspecting.

I just take a look up at the canopy it when dayblazing. The sun will identify the holes. inspection complete.

Why else would you be doing CReW?

Heres a quick review of all important points to check on a canopy to guarantee it's reliability.
Please note that an experienced rigger can certainly shortcut some steps and tell you to jump it or burn it because he can determine the state of the material visually and/or by just touching it with a very decent precision.


A.General state (throw away / continue)

B.Canopy:
1.stitchings, general (if many defects, change the canopy coz it's not worth fixing it)
2.leading edge reinforcements (webbing state / stitching / cells junction)
3.trailing edge (idem)
4.attachement points (pull and watch!)
5.fabric assembly (pull two cells apart and check how its spreading apart at junction/stitching line
6.inside reinforcements / ribs state (try to spot big damage or deformation on fabric around rib holes / attachement points)
7.fabric porosity (F111 only) [the most representative point of general wear is the US LE] - (you need a porosimeter or a very good knowledge of F111 wear while sucking through it)
8.fabric strength in both axis (you need a bettsometer)
9.holes or damage on the fabrics : very easy if you have a little breeze, just inflate the canopy holding it by the cell opening and watch inside / outside

C.Lines:
1.general state
2.state & stitching of each junction/cascade and ends (fingertrapped loops)
3.symmetry
4.trimming (measure under 5kg or what the manufacturer states)
5.brake lines (they generally have to be changed before the other ones)
6.if needed : line breaking strength (central A and B are the most stressed so break one of these and compare the value with the rated strength when new)


Risers are considered part of the rig. There's no absolute truth about limit values for porosity and strength tests, or acceptable deformation margins for the trimming.
It's up to you to determine your own security margins or to find a trustable rigger.
For a given variation of a given parameter, the behaviour can change differently between two different canopies.
I've seen mojo with will 800+ jumps still totally safe to jump even if loosing some flare. And other canopies with around 100-200 jumps totally worn out or snivelling because of poor care, water landings, lines deformation or other factors. And some brand new canopies opening like shit for unknown reasons!

**US LE = UpperSkin LeadingEdge (actually it's the front half part of the US)