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Hi all,
I have 2 troll, the first one DOM2007 with 5th line on line control and the other Troll DOM2011 with only 4 line on control.
Has somebody removed the 5th line from a Troll?
Eventually can I do it my self or it is necessary a rigger?

Thanks for sharing your experiences!

Curious, why do you want to?

First: sorry for my bad english...I'll try to explan my idea:

reading different post on forum the idea is that the 5th control line isn't realy util and it could help the tension knot.

I think he is trying to say the 5th control line is not needed or necessary and it has a higher risk for tension knots.

Thanks ;)

I can't say anything about a Trol, but my Ace has a fifth line and I have never had a tension knot. I've read and heard from others that the fifth line gives you a more powerful flare, which could come in handy in some situations. As far as tension knots go, they can happen on canopies with four UCL's as well. Tension knots can also happen on suspension lines as well, would that cause you to want to remove them as well? Attention to detail in packing EVERY pack job, in my opinion, should take care of them. I think they don't happen enough to change the design of a canopy set up. Just learn how to pack and know what to do if and when it happens.

Surely it's not necessary. Some people say the same about the tailgate. Yet there is quite a lot of people flying BASE canopies with 5 upper brake lines. I sure as hell prefer to have 5 over 4. Noticeably better control over braked flight and much better flare performance from half brakes.

Before giving into all the hype over tension knots I suggest the person wanting to cut off their 5th line (which essentially gives them 7% more flare power !) asks the manufacturer and other experienced jumpers.

don't be a sheep !

He says he has 2 trolls, one with a 5th control line and one without. I don't see any problem with wanting them to fly the same, especially if he likes the way it flies with 4 better. I like only having 4 control lines on my Fox. I have pretty long arms, and it gives me a longer control stroke.

True, its like Ford and Chevy, I wonder if you took the two Trols he has and compared the length of the LCL and the UCL if they would be different in length. Maybe, and don't know, if just taking the fifth line off would be enough? Maybe shorten or lengthening the other lines may be necessary to achieve the same results during flight?

But, if he's worried about tension knots, I don't think its a cure or enough of a reason to remove the fifth line....all that equals just under two cents though.

i want a 6th line.

I bet you could have mariobat's.

I'm not worryed about tension knot, I only suppose that removing 5th line could help to' prevent tension knot.
I'm here to' ask it to' experienced Jumpers ;)
Ciao

Available from next week:))))

hehe.

Maybe I got this wrong but unless you have very short arms the control range will always be the same.
From full flight to stall. Having longer arms will only stall the canopy more, but it won't give you more flare.
Bigger feet won't make the car go faster either

I know it doesnt give me more flare, that isnt the point. The control range becomes "shorter" when you have an extra brake line because it pulls down more of the tail. Some people prefer this extra efficiency, and some don't. When I fly my FOX with 4 control lines I finish my flare in the number 3 toggle position. When I fly my buddies fox (everything is the same except his has the 5th line) I finish my flare in the number 2 position, any more and it is very close to stall. Overall I know it comes down to preference of what you are used to flying.

Tom A had this to say on this on an older thread on this subject:

Recently I did a reline on a troll and at the same time changed from 5 to 4 steering line cascades. I had to add an additional line attachment to mount one of the lines at the correct place. That is something you better give to your rigger.
Also check the length of the lines, on the 4 cascades version all lines have the same length. If you have any questions about the troll, I suggest to email Stane / Atair canopies, there I got the best support you can imagine.

Ok, i missunderstood what you meant.

Thanks...I'll do it!

I'm sorry, it must be your bad English because I thought, according to your earlier post, that's what you were worried about.

I have 90+ jumps on a canopy with five lines, slider up and slider down, and have not had a tension knot yet. All I'm saying, its in the packing that helps prevent them.

I've removed a 5th UCL in the field with pocket knife before--it's not rocket surgery.

Blitzkrieg, I've jumped a canopy with 6 UCL's before.

I even had one that we put an UCL on that attached to the outside D line (at the stabilizer) once as an experiment. That was a bit of a mess, though.

The manufacturers have tested and marketed one or two specific UCL sets for their canopies. That's what they think is best and recommend. For most jumpers, there's no real reason to deviate very far from the manufacturers recommendations.

For some of us loonies, though, messing around with moving the UCL's to and fro was once a good bit of fun.

If it matters much, my Troll 265 MDV DOM 09/2011 has 4 UCL's. However, compared to my old Troll 305 with 5 UCL's; if you picture the lines numbered 1 thru 5 starting from the inner most line working your way to the outside... all they did was remove the 2nd one. Essentially, it pulls down just as much tail as before, but with one less control line. UCL 1, 3, 4 & 5 are in the same place.... 2 is the only one missing. Maybe an approach to maintain as much 5 line control as possible without the added line for possibility of a tension knot?

I have 400 BASE jump and i have done these jumps with a flik and a trol canopies. I have a 5th line on line control in both canopies but i have never had a tension knots.
I heard about that it may be caused if the control lines have twist during the pack job

Thanks to all for had share his experience with me and thanks to all the Jumpers that have sent me PM;)