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So i got an OSP 245, Put about 6-7 jumps on it, cant get the flare just right i feel as if i have to run out landings everytime. I go back and forth between that and a Troll 245 and on every jump i can shut down the troll so i dont have to take a step. How much excess do you have between the shallow brake setting to the toggle?

TIA

BTW im 170 pounds without gear on! And if you really want to know im 6 ft tall!

That depends on how long your arms are.

And how long is your body and legs ;-)

i am in the same boat, i have an OSP 245 loaded at .8 and about to take a trip to twin to really tweak my brake settings. forward speed on opening for me is a killer so im gonna be shortening my brake lines and test jumping a whole bunch at the potato soon. to answer your question my toggle is 19" away from my shallow brake cats eye, i have really long arms, and im gonna make it so its just a bit closer for a bit of a better flare. i guess you just have to fuck with it a while?

there you go guys im 6 ft tall and my arms are normal length for a 6 ft tall guy!

My OSP took a lot of brake 'deepening' from the cascades (5-6") to tune the dbs, this left the toggle settings in a good position so I could just about stall the canopy.
You should find the right position for your DBS by adjusting from the cascades 1st and then adjust the toggles.

HOw do i adjust the cascade?

You unpick the bartack at the top of the brakeline where it cascades and fingertrap a new loop in the new position. Maybe worth a visit to your local rigger. Don't overdo it though or you might find yourself stalling on opening. Search 'adjusting dbs' or similar should pull up some info on how to find the right point. I use trial & error!

Edited to add link http://www.blincmagazine.com/.../wiki/Brake_Settings

Ahhh i got it...i had my rigger fingertrap my brake line and make a loop for the toggles but i guess we made it too long...im undoing the bartacking right now and shortening it 6 inches..gonna find out tonight if its good enough then ill have him rebartack it at the new setting...if that doesnt work ill try the catseye!

just something to think about :

your Troll is all F111. Your OSP has ZP foreskin.
from purely theoretical standpoint, and having never jumped the OSP, I would imagine that trying to come in in 1/4 ot 1/2 brakes and flare from there would result in that no run landing.

try it out. If you break yourself, I can borrow your OSP for the time it takes for you to recover. Win-win. If you go in, I will just keep it.

Hmmm dont wanna try that as my main object i jump has a medical office parking lot as my landing area paul!!! But hey maybe ill go for it if im feeling good lol

the only cascade is where your upper brake lines (the 4 or 5 depending on the model) merge into a single brake line.

last time I checked the fingertrapped piece of dacron for your brake setting is called a catseye :)

Much easier to adjust from the top where the lines cascade than the bottom. This keeps the 'catseyes' intact and the deep & shallow settings the proper distance apart.

This is Stane's recommended method to change the brake settings - contact him directly if unsure...

True but the question was not about deep brake settings it was about overall length of the control lines.
In this case being to long and not giving him/her a full flare. A much easier way to adjust this without affecting the brake settings (depending on how your toggles are attached) is to either move the knot higher up the line where the toggle is connected to the control line, or reposition (shorten the line between loop and brake setting cats eye) the loop that passes through the toggle grommet.
another way is to simply take a wrap of the control line around each hand thus shortening the length.

Hi Jools - you are right (of course!), but my point is that my OSP (and Rob's) came with waaay shallow settings and a long toggle stroke - we were getting a lot of drive on opening. After adjusting the dbs up to near where they should be to give minimal forward speed on opening, the toggles were in the right position. If we had shortened the toggles first, then dialled in the dbs later, the toggle stroke would be too short and we would've had to have let them out again. So - it kind of makes sense when setting up a new canopy to dial the brake settings from the cascade first then sort out the toggle position after.

I'm in your neck of the woods tomorrow evening... Are you about??

Agree 100% but I was presuming the brake settings were good because it was not mentioned..... anyway I am in Shrewsbury area until Sat night. might be able to do Brum or Manchester if you are interested. Got a couple of things on the go in each. Give me a ring if you are interested.

You need to loosen the chest strap more, more front riser like a 360 turn...And make sure you go down wind and dont pull on the strings there for pussies......Seriously land into the wind and flare all the way and dont focus so much on your chest strap.. And Its not the weapon its the warrior

Yeah, I had to take about 6" off the DBS, now v happy with the forward speed (lack of) on opening. My first jump on the factory settings was 'interesting' (lots of end cell closure, f*ck-all canopy time!).
I can't stall the OSP with the toggles but I can shut it down to fairly close.
When I'm jumping more regularly I'll probably shorten the toggle stroke a little but that's OCD and 'fine tuning' more than anything else...

Well i shortened the loop for the toggles about 6 inches...going to go test it out tonight...havent jumped it enough to notice the forward/or lack of forward speed during opening! Hopefully its better!

Jumped it with the brakes about 6 inches shorter...as soon as i opened and popped the toggles i found there to be alot alot more pressure on the toggles from the tail, Felt like i need to lengthen the brake settings a little bit now! When i flared i didnt have to even take a step when i hit the ground just stopped right on time! Making progress!!

nice. meet it in the middle and you'll probably have a nice flying ship.

How are the OSP's treating you? What loadings are you jumping them at, and hows is the flare and heading performance? I've heard so reports of shitola heading performance.

Havent done too many jumps on it to tell you how it flies, Heading performance is great, on the 8 jumps i have on it , it opened on heading every single time

It does have more forward speed then people say it does though!

Heading performance is good - I went through a phase of offheadings after ~60 jumps and eventually got it checked out. It turned out the black dacron lines had stretched way out of trim. Stane relined it with white dacron and the last 100 or so have been great.

It does have a fair whack of speed in full drive - but you can fly it super slow in deep brakes. The control range is much better than the troll and it is much easier to sink in to tight LA's this is the main benefit for me.

I haven't noticed it being much quicker to open than the troll on slider down or any harder on terminal jumps (although I only have a handful of terminal openings on the OSP)

im gonna go ahead and ressurect this thread as it pertains to what im gonna ask and what we previously discussed.........

first of all, i shortened my upper fingertraps approximately 3", and it definitely helped supress some forward speed on opening, but its not quite where i want it yet, so ill keep with the trial and error.

question 1# until i figure out the right length, i have put a little bit of supertack through where the catseye goes into the fingertrap to hold it in place when i pack.................... there is a stopper hitch on each end of the supertack.
is having these little stopper hitch knots of supertack sticking out (even though theyre pretty damn small) going to affect anything as in burning either line or canopy material on opening? obviously i will keep a close eye on these areas while packing after each jump.

question 2#
after you find your sweet spot, do you need to reposition where your little white eye for your tailgate a bit further down the C line, like towards the toggles, or does this not apply to the situation?

thanks for your input and opinions
chris

Don't forget to lengthen the bottom of the control line by the same amount, or your toggle stroke will be pretty far off, giving you some fairly hard landings.



I'm not sure I understand. What do you mean by "catseye goes into the fingertrap"?

I assume you are hand tacking through the fingertrap joint where the lower control line meets the upper control lines? If that's the case, then no, I wouldn't worry about it. Personally, I won't put more than 10 or 15 jumps on something like that, but I often do it for a couple jumps while trying to dial in brake settings. Assuming it doesn't take more than 10 jumps in any position before you actually sew it down with a machine, I think you're fine.


I've never had any issues from doing it that way.


It depends. If the tailgate attachment is now so high that you'd get fabric in the tailgate itself when you try to close it, then yes, you need to move it down. Ideally the tailgate should be placed as high as possible on the line while still not catching any fabric when it is closed. If it's not catching any fabric, then you're probably fine to just leave it where it was.