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Having just successfully dialed-in my Deep Brake Settings at the Potato Bridge, I've got a question about Shallow Brake Settings. I've been told that the distance between DBS and SBS is fairly constant (whereas, DBS are unique for each person/canopy combo). So now that I've figure out my DBS, I should be able to set my SBS the same distance apart from the DBS as the manufacturer's original DBS and SBS settings were, correct?

The SBS and DBS on the canopy were set by the manufacturer about 3.5" apart (measuring from the center of the setting loops). My new DBS are 6" deeper than the original DBS. Should I move the original DBS up until they're 3.5" from the correct/new DBS to serve as the new SBS? Or would I be fine leaving the original DBS where they are (still using them as the new SBS)?

Thanks,

Brian

holy crap! on a troll? or do you mean 6" shallower? that seems crazy excessive... just curious.

6" deeper.

Yes, they looked "crazy excessive" to me too, but they work. My canopy now "parks" on opening and backs out in a turn (i.e., only one side stalls) when a riser is pulled. I'm going to have to reposition my tailgate since it's now too far up to include the control lines.

interesting.. typically the factory settings are very deep on a troll. in fact on mine, i simply use the shallow settings for slider off. and since i don't ever jump that canopy slider up i haven't bothered putting a new shallow setting on.

Don't lose any weight or have any headwinds.

I would be seriously surprised if Atair let a canopy leave their factory in a condition that such extreme adjustments were deemed to be necessary.
Your new uber deep brakes might be sweet at Potato but could very well be your bane on other jumps.

 

I went skydiving with the canopy packed into a student rig the week before my trip to Twin Falls. I did a hop and pop and repeatedly stalled the canopy, marking the right control line at the ring while in the stall.

Went to Twin Falls for some coaching with Tom Aiello. Video showed that the manufacturer's DBS was too shallow as my canopy had significant forward speed on opening.

Tom used the "stall marks" I made to put in a new DBS, which indeed looked very very deep. Jumped that setting with the expectation that the canopy would stall on opening. It didn't stall on opening, but single rear riser input caused the entire canopy to stall. Tom adjusted the DBS a bit more shallow and now the canopy opens with minimal forward speed, allowing a riser input to only stall one side (pivoting the canopy while backing up). Tom gave me thumbs up on the DBS.

I'm 5'11" and my arms are normal length.

Are you saying that a DBS that works for Twin Falls will result in a stall at lower elevation?

How do people set their DBS aside from the Perrine Bridge? Trial and error doesn't seem like a good idea off of the low, mostly solid objects I've got in my neighborhood.

A tailwind on that setup could be even worse. If you are jumping a low A or S with a tailwind that thing is going to take its sweet time pressurizing. I've seen this happen with DBS settings that are too deep (and not even as deep as you are talking about). I've also had a friend who broke his back because of too deep brakes and a strong tailwind.

Personally, I think some forward speed isn't a bad thing. It just requires that you be fast on your controls in an emergency but it will give you more options.

Your methodology sounds very solid to me.

Honestly, so far I have only adjusted the brake
settings on skydiving canopies, which of course
are typically much smaller and hence have much
shorter lines. Usually a few inches make enough
of a difference.

However, I have jumped many different canopies
set up for many different people and did notice
that what I thought was a short, twitchy control
stroke was fine for some other jumps.

I personally like to finish my flair with both of
my hands near my navel, it gives me a greater
range of input and that way I am already in a
good position to PLF.

As for field elevation, it affects air density, so
a canopy at 4,000 feet is flying through thinner
air versus in CA and FL where the air is thicker.

Again, I'm mostly just going through the thought
exercise and killing time since the WX sucks

Hopefully someone like Taylor can chime since
he is experienced and has jumped in both areas.

 I agree. I wouldn't mess with the settings unless I was overloading or underloading.

Aren't you confusing the brake setting and the brakeline lenght here?

Changing the brake setting - the DBS or SBS placement on the line - doesnt change the amount of brake you apply from a given position of the toggles (e.g. "toggles at the hips" will still be the same)

Modifying the line length (shortening the brakelines) will result on a change of amount of brake applied at a given position of the toggle.

Usually the modification of DBS is made on the line by adding a new - or moving the existent DBS loop. If you change it by changing the line length at the cacades, however, both DBS and "flare at a given toggle position" will be modified.

Good point, definitely my mistake,
I was thinking like a skydiver

I wouldn't jump an A or S with DBS. The rule I'm going by is:
solid, slider down = DBS
everything else = SBS

I did talk with Taylor, but it was the talk with Annie that made me confident that I've done the right testing and that my settings are correct. Annie was convinced that the difference in altitude was insignificant for the issue at hand.

 

Key phrase in my post "The rule I'm going by..."
There may be plenty of debate. That's fine, but that's what I'm going by.

I would only jump a low A with a tailwind or wind down the wire. Would not jump in no wind.

Taylor is pimp-tastic and all

but input from Annie is valuable!

I talked with Brian about this at elsinore and examined his settings. Everything he said and did makes perfect sense. He thought everything out and I am confident that everything is correct. Unfortunatly we were winded out so I didn't get to see his canopy fly.

Ody