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Specifically whilst using the base plate, how are you packing your wsx-treme? How far do you pull the canopy down before making the first fold, how high do you make the first fold and how low do you make the second fold? I'm experimenting a bit at the moment trying to get a nice pack distribution and tapered shape.
Have you tried anything which has effected heading performance?

At the moment I'm pulling the canopy down until the risers are taut, probably 3 or 4 inches from the bottom of the container, then making the first fold as high as I can, and the second fold as low as I can to fill out the bottom of the container. I found that pulling the canopy all the way down squashed the tailpocket and lines against the bottom flap.

Thanks,

Gus

I was having problems with the floorplate as well and had Robert show me how to pack it at Bridge Day. He placed it in the container like a skydiving reserve would go into a freebag, so there's a few folds. First fold is right after the end of the tail pocket, second fold is slightly before the end of the tail pocket (allows the dynamic corners to be at a 45 degree angle), third fold is at the top of the container with the ears/tail being folded under. At that point, you can seperate the ears just like you would to put it into a freebag and then pull the closing loop up between the ears. Once I finish up some homework I'll pack it up and post some pics of the closing sequence.

This method works fantastic for terminal jumps and I noticed no heading difference, but heading performance for me was severely degraded when I packed that way slider down. However, I don't have much experience packing BASE rigs that way, so it could be due to my inexperience.

Pics would be very helpful, ta.

Gus

If you have the 245 troll in it w no MDV the canopy you may pack so that first fold is on the top of the pack tray. second is on the bottom of container but bit shorter so that you get clean 45 deg angle were the dynamic corners are. after this two folds rest of it just lie on the top and separate the first fold so that closing loop can get nicely through the centre of the canopy.
IMPORTANT - do make the pack bit narrower that the taill pocket before you start w folding.
Common mistake is:
1. to wide pack
2. to long first and second fold
3. to bulky pack in general.

This is just for no MDV Trolls
For MDV trols best is to pack as the post above saying!
If it is packed like w no MDV than the pack feels to stiff on the upper part .

Hope this helps!!

Ok, so it turns out closing a container and taking good, clear pictures of the process by yourself is pretty hard. Anyways, I'll try to explain best I can.

Look at the crappy description pic first, the last pic uploaded. Hopefully it will help make sense. Notice that you do the first fold at the top of the tail pocket, 2nd fold at the bottom, then 3rd fold at the top, folding the tail under. Now, on to the crappily taken pics.

Risers - I just lay them side by side on the bottom of the tray going all the way down.

Fold 1 - right at the top of the tail pocket, you can use the clamps from canopy in.jpg to get a reference. This is the point you can mess with the nose, but I always leave mine wide open.

Fold 2 - Make this fold slightly before the bottom of the container, this way the bottom will have a 45 degree angle. See side profile.jpg to see what the corners look like in the end. The amount I'm showing with my fingers is slightly exaggerated to make it obvious.

Ears top.jpg - Pull the bridle attachment up and out and seperate the tail into 2 ears, just like you would a skydiving reserve. Those clamps come off now so I can get the ears to come down further.

Fold 3 - Fold the tail under, 1 ear at a time. BTW this part sucked the most for taking pics. I had to grab some dumbells to hold the canopy so I could get a good angle.

Pullup between ears - kinda obvious, pull the loop between the ears. There should be a channel between the ears just like if it was going into a super long freebag. I don't worry about compressing the ears until I'm closing the top, which is why it's hard to see the closing loop.

Top Close - just top part closed, make sure you route the bridle out the middle instead of the top of the container (I do this for all jumps now).

Side Profile - Note the bottom of the container and the angle it's at. That's why your 2nd fold isn't all the way at the bottom of the container. Normally the angle the entire container slopes at is much greater without the bulge at the top, but I was getting frustrated with closing and taking pictures at the same time.

Closed - so pretty

Whoa! Outstanding effort, thanks very much I will try that right now. If I can get it packed nicely using the conventional folds is there any advantage to doing it this other way? What's the theory behind the packjob?

Gus

Thanks Robi, it is an unvented 245. Why is that packjob unsuitable for an MDV?

Gus

due the position of MDV vent covers which during the first fold sit at the first fold making the fold very bulky.

I start by aligning the bottom of the tailpocket with the bottom of the label. It should makes sense from there. I also run the pullup cord through the floor plate's closing loop first and hanging it out the top right of the rig so you don't have to fish for it later.

Much slower openings and increased access to the nose to slow down the opening. I love this method for doing multiple loads, but I personally would never use it for an intentional low pull since it's difficult for me to consistantly speed up the opening when I pack like that.