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i legthened the closing loops to a comfortable tension.

Here's a tip that may help a bit.

When you place the canopy into the container, leave a good 4 inches from the bottom of the tail pocket to the bottom wall of the rig. When the last s-fold is created, there will be more room available when the bottom is closed.

Create the next fold right at the *don't go above this line* line. Place your hand as wide as you can across that line. Pick the canopy straight up against your hand and then fold it back and press flat.

Take care to keep the canopy nice and square in the container as it's being closed. Bend it into shape after it's all closed up.

You would think that would be a "given" for any pin rig.

Like Tim said but I close the top grommets right after the first fold.

Then I dress the tail very much like I would do on a reserve, i.e. by making ears and stuffing them on the sides.

With this method you are able to generate neat corners that can be stuffed directly into the container's corners.

I saw Miles D. using the very same technique.

The fundamentals for the p-pro to look pretty and have the best pin tension are:

Don't place fabric above the line.

Marty

I just had a quick question for you. I have been having a little trouble with high pin tension on my new Perigee pro.

Completely understand. All rigs do have character, and when the rig is new, it will have a "breaking in period".
1) for the rig to loosen up and stretch out, and
2) for the user to become more familiar and develop technique.

With the help of my mentor, I was able to get it lower, but still not to the point that I am happy. We tried a couple different ways/places for the folds.

There are many suggestions to distribute bulk. Remember that the container is a wedge. This means that the majority of the bulk will be at the bottom of the container. The placard at the top of the container is a suggestion to the user to minimize the bulk at the top of the container. This will accomplish a couple of things-
a) better closure/alignment of the top of the container,
b)make the rig fit better--with the bulk not at the top of the container, then the rig will roll over the shoulders


--both of which will minimize pin tension.
I have heard of jumpers repositioning the T.P to change the bulk of the bottom. I personally have the TP at the bottom of the container and make the first fold just below the placard. At this point, be aware of the width. If too wide, then you will have mash, or fold the pack-job to fit the width. (I like to see the outside stitch line for the container as a guide to the width of the pack-job). This can create a wrinkle in the top flap, not a function issue , but not so easy on the eyes. As with all pack-jobs, the volume will stay the same, but the perceived/"manipulated" volume will dramatically effect the aesthetics and tension. Then with the second fold at the bottom of the container, I extend the fold past the bottom on the container(about 2-3 fingers width). This will insure that the bulk will remain at the bottom, and also provide for a uniform, firm platform for the extraction of a stowed PC. The packing tabs, bridle attachment and top of the upper surface cells should (in my pack-job) end up slightly higher than the center of the rig. Be sure to clear the bridle and that there is a unobstructed line of tension between the bridle and the canopy (no packing tabs or canopy material).
I close the top first, and that should be relatively simple, without too much squishing. This will secure the pack-job in the container, allowing the user to carefully place the canopy material in the bottom corners. Next will be closing the bottom flap, keeping in mind the width and pin tension.

My question is about the patch sewn on the rig that says do not place material above this line. Is this for aesthetics? Or is there another reason for it? I seems like I could get better results if I placed more canopy up there.

As mentioned, it is primarily for the reduction bulk at the top, which will make the rig fit the body better, reduce possible high pin tension for the top pin, and keep the rig looking smooth. To clarify, if the pack-job is excessively wide then the effort required to close the container will be more difficult.

Another thought
.....and this goes for all containers.......
Think of the shape of the container
Pack the parachute so the finished shape is the same as the container.
Then simply, wrap the container around the "shaped" pack-job.

One more thought.....

is that as long as the basics of packing are in place, the details are truly individual
...meaning what works for one will not necessary work for another.
Questions to confirm.
Is the pack-job clean, neat, balanced, and configured for proposed intent?
Is the pin tension appropriate for proposed intent?
You will develop your unique style of closing, even if you are trying to replicate exactly someone's else technique.
Be open, flexible and willing to keep your procedure in an evolving state. I personally have a very similar pack-job to what I did last time, but it is a far way from the beginning attempts. I am constantly looking and picking up(or removing) subtle moves that keep the packing process always new, fresh, and in constant improvement.

Again hope this helps .......

_M