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I've seen and heard of jumpers using different things to static lining themselves off objects, one being electrcal tape. This is very interesting to me because of it's availablility at any time should I run out or bring too little break cord. I've heard of jumpers wrapping the bridle twice thereby equaling, to some degree, break cord. Is this a common practice out there somewhere or is it an outdated technique?
What are some other substitutions aout there?


Thanks!

Mike

Plastic garbage bags cut in to strips and rolled, play with the width until you have enough force. Arne from Iceland recommended monofilament fishing line as it is rated for strength or breaking point. The cool thing about polymers is they stretch to the breaking point without much recoil. I hope this helps.
take care,
space

The electrical tape rule I learned was 2 wraps under the bridle (on the object), then the bridle, then 3-5 wraps above it.

I've seen a huge number of things used as break cord alternatives: electrical tape, plastic bags, condoms--you name it and it's been tried.

I like the fishing line idea. Break cord itself is cheap and easy to carry, too.

I have used red danger tape, avail. at any hardware store. 1 roll will probably last a lifetime. I have since gone to break cord, being that the tensile strength has been tested, and the other stuff only in the field.

I've been using a fishing line called "spiderwire" for many years. It's 50pound test, and made out of spectra. I double up on it to achieve 100pd. Of course the knot will reduce this amount to around 80pds or so. One small spool has lasted for about 6 years, using only about 6 inches at a time(no jokes here) I can't remember the price, but it was less than $20.00 I'm sure. I use a double fisherman's knot to join the ends together, just make sure to square knot the loose ends also. This stuff is slick and will pull through most knots easily. It actually comes with a diagram detailing this I believe.

As always. It's all theory
Mike

* When there is a will, there is a way.*
-True Story-

While on the top of a very new object at the time.
I looked over to the right at a scruffy, weathered weed of a bush.
Sticking out of a cup of dirt between two rocks, a few feet from the exit.
Dude you wouldn't grab this pile of sticks if your life depended on it.
I noticed tied to this bush was, several pieces of old Boot Lace, knotted together,
Tied to a Binocular strap.
It seems that D.W. was there a couple of days earlier and had no one to P.C.A. him off the rock.
So that is all he had in his possession at the time to make a static line to tie his Pilot Chute off, to
get close enough to the edge to launch.

Twoply,
didn't you take off your pantyhose at the exit point and use those once?

Yeah mate,

I was with him and we strung together all the bits of stuff we had with us so he wouldn't rip up his PC. That was the deal he'd PCA me first then SL himself but I had to give up my binocular strap.

I was later inspired to tie off to a daggy bush on top of a cliff in Oz. Dam glad the bush didn't rip out by the roots.

Answering the original thread. In Oz we use electrical tape a lot. I have made literally hundreds of jumps with it from all objects. There is no one science that says two wraps - five wraps or whatever. Use your noggin and test it before you jump. When its cold (ice or wet) and the tie off point has sharp edges - I wrap a lot more - if its round and a smooth surface - less wraps. But I always give it a tug to see if its enough to open my rig and lift the canopy. Simple idea and common sense stuff.

I either loop it through the eye of the bridle where the PC attaches or I tie a loop in the bridle near the PC and run it through that. What's nice is a I have a tape in the leg starp of every one of my five rigs so I am ready to go to a PCA at a moments notice. You need it in Oz.

I have been very impressed with the stuff - it is very simple. NB I always SL with a large PC on just in case.

Funny thing is it is far more predictable deployment than a PCA from someone your not sure about.

Luv Slim

Hmmm, how about some bailing twine or maybe a Trojan tied together??
For a buck a yard or less for military spec break cord why use anything else?!?!?
Really, I am asking! It just doesn't seem to make sense to me.
Also, a friend showed me how to back up the break cord with another piece of break cord to ensure it all happens in the right order. Seems like a good idea for the really low stuff!?

Valid Point Mr Sabre Dave,

It's just that electrical tape is readily accessible at any petrol station or grocery store on the planet. Break cord isn't.

I understand that it may then be argued "Why don't you buy heaps of it and carry it with you?"

Unfortunately not all jumpers plan so well ahead in advance and forget to bring it. Tape is very easy to get readily and I would argue that it really does work well with some common sense.

Regards

Slim

First question, does the tape stay on the object?


Second, being new to base this might get me flamed, but if tape is left, dosent that break the "leave no trace rule"

Question about SL: I suppose you need to S-fold the bridle ( I have seen it one the "carry-on SL pictures").

But the bridle should unfold BEFORE opening the rig...

How do you do that?

Is it possible to use a rubber band somehow tied to the rig?

Any advice?

> But the bridle should unfold BEFORE opening the rig...
Yes indeed.

> Is it possible to use a rubber band somehow tied to the rig?
Rubber band: yes. Tied to the rig: no. The most reasonable and accepted way to "keep" the S-folds on bridle is to place a rubber band on bridle itself, holding the S-folds.
Just be careful that the strength exerted by rubber bands on bridle S-folds MUST be WEAK. The S-folds must release themselves WAY before opening container (this is a major issue on pin rig where container opening (=pulling) force is relatively low): a premature opening of container BEFORE bridle S-folds are released would produce an out of stage deployment, which thing is NOT nice in any case.
The rubber band (or also a thin elastic band, the ones used in offices/schools/wherever) must hold in position the bridle S-folds, that's it, no need to "stage" deployment. Check out that this rubber band holds bridle S-folds just lightly. A smart way to position such a rubber band is to place it "around" bridle itself (just pass PC and bridle inside rubber band), so once S-folds are released, the rubber band remains "around" bridle, which things produces two positive effects: 1) you don't loose the rubber band (=save money); 2) you don't leave any trace
Just my 0.02€

I use a Tailgate rubberband(regular just cutted in 2 peices),that seems to work fine(on my 2 pin rig).

that part i dont likeI do set it on out side and in a way that i WILL lose it,why?
Becourse i dont want any thing to keep the bridel together,after it should be open..I belive it might could snap in the way you mention(not much force i know,but litel is more than enough when things goes wrong).

he he i like the saving a rubberband idea(mac you rember that discus..he he you WON)

BUT,you WILL leave trace EACH time you make a SL jump.. why?
1. hopefuly you use breakcord,which breaks at some point(leaving 1 or 2 peices on the ground,regarding which way you do it..)
2.You most times lose your Tailgate band..

The worst trace you could leave(in my oppinion) will be condoms elecktrical tape,or other ways to SL AT THE EXITPOINT.That way you TELL the people that has legal acsess to the exit point,that someone were there whith out premission.
NOT saying that breakcord and rubberbands not will get attention,but its in a different way...

698,could you send me a pic of how you have made your rope bridel.Im interested in the attachment point in both ends..Think its an great idea

> that part I don't like. I do set it on out side and in a way that I WILL lose it, why?
Probably I didn't explain myself well, or, rather, it is difficult to explain in words such a simple thing. In either way you get your rubber band to hold S-folds, both in the "to-lose-it" case or in the "not-to-loose-it" case, you have the same number of S-folds within the rubber band and the same force holding S-folds. Apart form the fact that I use myself (to hold S-folds) a very thing yellow elastic band (but this is due to my "special bridle" that, been made out of 5.5mm rope, is very thick).

> could you send me a pic of how you have made your rope bridel. Im interested in the attachment point in both ends..
Probably you mean how the two loops are sewn? The two loops in my special bridle have got the same type of seam/stitching as per climbing ropes that need to have a loop sewn. I will try to make a close up photo of (sewings of) loops in my special bridle.

P.S.: Without taking any offence to Dropzone and to its webmaster and to all the people posting/reading it, I don't see why we are discussing these things here on Dropzone-BASE zone instead of discussing it in the BASE Board.....

Without having any break cord available and not wanting to miss the awesome weather window we've got right now, I bought some (50lb) 'tournament rated' braided dyneema fishing line (I chose the braided dyneema rather than the monofilament version as braided doesn't stretch and wanted to emulate the more static breaking characteristics of the break cord used traditionally. After buying it, I realised that it may be better to use monofilament as it would likely have a similar peak break force but due to the more elastic properties of monofilament it would likely break after applying force over a slightly longer period (meaning less chance of a premature break). All theory at the moment... but I'd like to test that before relying on it on something low!

I did find an 'official' test done by an angling club (using replicates to find out average breaking strain of various lines - two of which being the same brand as the one I have here but of a different indicated breaking strain - reviewing lines from similar manufacturers. It suggested that the breaking strain of 'Mojiko' brand lines is probably just below what the store indicated rating is (in accordance with tournament regulations). in this case below 50lb per length.

At the moment I figure its safe to assume that the actual average breaking strain would be somewhere near the indicated 50lb breaking strain.

Given that 80lb is the standard at the moment - I propose to double the break cord to get an indicated strength of 100lb. Weaknesses from knotting (coupled with likely actual strength of the line of below 50lb/length) should mean that my system has a rated strength close to that of regular single wrap static line (even taking into account knots).

To be extra safe, I am also doubling the break cord to ensure that if I do get a premature break, I have a longer backup loop to add a little redundancy to the system. So far to test the system, I have made the SL tieoff system and used snatch force from my hands to break the cable, I'm confident it'll be close to what I need it to do - I can't break it with static force, but with a quick snap it gives way - I've never done the same with rated static line so I can't compare strength of the force required to break the two types.

To let me compare without going to a lab, Any info you guys could give as to what force is needed to break a given piece of break cord would be appreciated - and don't say 80lbs for the smart arses out there!

To get some idea of the breaking strain of static line, can I ask a favour of someone with access to a bunch of break line...? Can someone set up a test that could be easily replicated with different types of cord to get an idea of their relative breaking strains, but with stuff found around the house. e.g. using a length of break cord tied to a length of climbing rope (static rope to eliminate stretch) and then tied to a fixed object (say a ceiling beam or similar immovable high object) and then tied to a loose object of known weight at the other (e.g. a water bottle with exactly 1L in it) - I'm interested in knowing what distance it'd need to be dropped straight down onto the line before the single strand of static line breaks.

I could then use the same stuff here and duplicate the test to get an idea of how my unrated cord compares to the rated stuff available elsewhere. I missed this wknd's window so its gotta be later in the week before I can try it on the local object again...

Anyone that can help out, I'll buy beer next time I'm in your neck of the woods!

I have been using electrical tape for the last 5 static line jumps, 4-5 wraps around the bridle. I have been using break tie as a secondary, but have had good success with the tape so far, with no premature breakages before line stretch. Bear in mind this is a very small sample size to draw conclusions from, and I make a loop in the bridle to shorten the length and reduce the shock loading on the static line.

feel free to scour the archives. this topic pops up periodically. nothing new.

for example, there is this thread.

Threads like this humor me because so many people are quick to bash somebody for doing something wrong, but when you ask "what are some alternatives" those same people are quick to admit there not as perfect as they seem and have alternative methods to the correct one like everyone else. Any who, medium 3m zip ties are rated at 80 lbs, after securing a rope with one to a pole a broke it fairly easily. Decided to try two, two took several snatches to break witch made me a little more comfortable. It's not the tie that actually breaks, its the zippy pieces that make the ratcheting sound inside so I attach them in a way they don't bind up after breaking and slide out easily. I use a link to attach to them to keep away from bridal damage. I have another role of break tape now but for 11 jumps from 200 this was my alternative.

Sweet. Thats what I was looking for.
Thanks mate

huh?

this is BASE. there is no official body. thus there are NO rules to break, just differing personal opinions. the better advice comes from personal experiences. weaker advice comes from rumor and conjecture.

the original poster talked about testing. that is the best idea anyone can have. it permits someone to develop their own personal opinion. it provides experience without the risk of personal injury. it is the best way to eliminate gear fear from cropping up on the edge.

have people successfully used alternatives to break cord?
sure.

do they continue to do so?
sure.

do alternatives work as well when wet, cold, hot, degraded by the sun, etc.?
I know of nothing as extensively tested as break cord.

is break cord expensive?
I think if bought by the roll, the stuff is cheap.

this is BASE. each jumper gets to make THEIR own call, but must live with the consequences.

test, test, test. not only will it provide insight into the forces required to break, it might prevent a jumper from mis-rigging on exit point. figure out if trusting your health to something is worth the risk.

The link is busted wwarped: it says


Forums: An error occurred

No such action 'post_view_flat;post=1348854;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25;'

there are a ton of threads mentioning static line, I'm not sure which one I tried to link.

do a search. there is an Aug 2008 thread out there with the Subject. "SL Question." there are others.

(not sure what happened to the link.)

its all good - it linked to a page that had test values listed, or a comparison to how tests were done before. Either way it worked for me an I'm happy with my end result. Thanks again

zip ties or cable ties rated at 50lbs. or so work great in the summer but not so good in the cold of winter.

the best option for no trace: carry on static line with break cord......
made myself some COSL´s work perfect and no waste (only break cord or somthing thats on the same break load level)

Some people don't read the posts before they decide to

...to post a comment?
i´ve read all the posts before so iwas wondering why they started such an discussion about break cord alternatives. it doesnt matter what you use only that it break at ~35 kg or ~80lbs repetition:
It does not matter what you use- the main thing is that it works!